Ερώτηση Προτάσεις : Καλάμι για εγγλέζικο

Θα ήταν κάτι παραπάνω από αφελές να απαντήσω απόλυτα σε αυτό το ερώτημα αφού όπως θα γνωρίζεις και εσύ δεν μπορούν να συγκριθούν δυο καλάμια με διαφορετικά χαρακτηριστικά.
Μια τέτοια σύγκριση ακομα και αν έβγαζε μετά από ένα test curve το ίδιο power rating η συμπεριφορά τους θα ήταν διαφορετική στο test line.
Σε ένα test curve ακομα και αν το καλάμι έχει διαφορετικό βάψιμο η βερνίκι το αποτέλεσμα σύγκρισης θα είναι διαφορετικό.

Φιλλιπε.
Με τα παραπανω δεδομενα θα ειχαμε διαφορετικα αποτελεσματα στο test curve γιατι οι μυτες ειναι διαφορετικες.
Αλλα επειδη εχουμε ΙΔΙΑ butt εχουμε ιδια δυναμη στα καλαμια.

Το τεστ καμπυλης σου δινει μια αισθηση τις δυναμης. Το τεστ δυναμης σου την επιβεβαιωνει.

In many ways "action" and "test curves" are so closely related that inevitably there is an overlap regarding blank design. To try and get to grips with the subject, it is important to understand the basic principal from which a general rule of thumb has been used by the industry for a long time.

The phrase "test curve" is a description that is used to calibrate how much weight is required to pull a given rod blank tip 90 degrees to the butt. The blank would be fixed horizontally and weights fixed to the tip until the 90 degrees are reached, Whatever total weight, in pounds and ounces, that is required to achieve this, is the "test curve".

The problem is that nowadays there are so many different types of carbon being used that there isn’t a level playing field. If only one material were to be used by everyone in the trade, and only one length of rod, evaluation would be very uncomplicated, but there are so many variables.

In addition to the variables in materials and length, blanks DO vary from one to another for a whole host of reasons. One example is the difference between an un-ground blank and a ground, "painted" blank. This does not necessarily mean that a painted blank is weaker than an unground blank, because the makers actually allow for this. There is quite often a difference between the two though. Not withstanding that, in my opinion, there could be a variance of plus or minus 10% in the performance of a batch of blanks, caused not just by this difference, but by other potential factors that the blank manufacturers find impossible to control. Please understand that these variables are not usually enormous, quite the opposite, but they do exist and they do have effects on the overall performance, including test curve.

Another example worth considering is this, the mandrels used are always longer than the pattern of carbon tape which will be wrapped around them, and it does happen that blank makers wrap a little higher or lower on the same mandrel sometimes creating a variance. Likewise there could be variations in the wrapping pressure. These and possibly many other examples will have effects on the overall performance of the blank. Once again I have merely touched the subject of variation of the blank, it would be quite possible for me to cite many more examples of variation.

If we are to use "test curve" as the criteria to gauge the suitability of a blank or rod we must decide on what length of rod we want. An 11 foot 1 ½ lb. t.c. Rod will feel stiffer (more powerful) than a 12 foot rod of the same test curve that has been built using the same materials and assuming that the handle position is more or less the same on both rods. But because we have changed the position of the fulcrum the whole dynamic has changed, so the longer rod will be slower to reach it’s test curve, this gives the impression that it is "softer" or less powerful. It isn’t in fact; it just takes longer to reach its test curve potential. This is why "snag" or so-called "stalking " rods are short. The short rod enables the angler to exploit the power of the rod really quickly.

If we are going to order a blank to build a Barbel rod on, I believe the first thing to decide is, which length is preferred. I have to say that I would not want a 12-foot rod. In my opinion, and once again this is a personal viewpoint, I honestly believe that I can fish more efficiently with an 11 foot rod. I can hold the shorter rod for longer and it will be better balanced. Even if I put my rod in a rod rest, I can strike utilizing the power potential quicker, and get in control faster too. Again it is a fact of dynamics that it is easier to move a shorter stick quicker through the air than a long one!

Having made the decision with regard to the length of rod that is required, how do we decide what test curve blank to choose. This depends on a number of factors. For example, "where will I be fishing?" Will it be a big deep river with a real "pull" to it, or a shallow narrow river possibly overgrown with lots of snaggy areas nearby. Two very different rivers and therefore two sets of circumstances that will dictate or at least have a great influence on the final choice of rod or blank.

Let us now consider another aspect of the test curve rating system. I am sorry but again the following comments are slightly less valid than they were a few years ago, but it is all we have to go on.

The stated test curve, by applying the following, easy to understand formulae, will enable us to match the right line range for the rod. Example, if a rod is rated at 1 lb. Test, multiply that figure by five (1 x 5 =5).

Then add or subtract 30%, (5 + 30% = 6.5) or (5 – 30% = 3.5) we can see that the rod will handle lines from 3 ½ lb. b.s to 6 ½ lb. b.s. So if you are using a rod of 11/4 lb. t.c. With 10 lb. b.s. line you are in fact overloading the rod by 1.88 lb. Does it matter? Well it would if carbon were not as strong as it usually is. If you leant into the rod in the days of fibreglass or even bamboo, you could easily have broken the rod if the line had not broken first! These days our rods are very much stronger size for size. However, if we are intent on getting our presentation dead right we may well have to consider the range of lines suitable for our rod. Fish too fine and we will surely be broken, fish with a line to heavy and apart from possibly overloading the rod, we will loose some presentation advantage. Once again lots of variables!

So how do I choose the right rod then you ask? Well this is not an easy question to answer. This is how I go about it. I have previously stated that a rod is expected to perform 3 jobs. To recap these are, casting, striking and playing fish. I will now add another that to me is of equal importance, bite detection. I want to, in most cases FEEL the bite, and I want to SEE the bite. So I want a certain amount of tip flexibility. I want to strike quickly and positively. And I want to be able to control, to some degree, the Barbel that I hook.

My rods then will be on the moderate side of "fast action" but with a power reserve requirement that is adequate to subdue the biggest Barbel that I might realistically hook. I will also give thought to what size of lead that I might have to use. If a 4oz. lead was the requirement (God forbid I hope it never is!) then I would have to look again. And we would be getting deeply into "very specialized" rods now. Another two pages at least would need to be written, to do THAT subject justice and I don’t think I want to do it – yet!

So for most Barbel fishing, rods of 1 ¼ lb. t.c. To 2 lb. t.c. 11 foot or twelve foot, that must be your choice. But do consider a moderately fast action rod/blank. Although I have stated, more than once that my favourite rod is a Harrison Avon, the best all-round Barbel blank available is the 11 foot GTI Carp 2 lb. tc.by Harrison. There I have finally said it! Next installment, blank alignment".

Λοιπόν για να μην ξεφύγουμε τελείως και γύνουμε όλοι αστροναύτες της NASA αυτό που θα ήθελα να κάνετε όσοι έχετε την δυνατότητα ,είναι να κάνετε ένα συγκριτικό τεστ με προιόντα που κυκλοφορούν στην Ελλάδα μας , τα οποία αναγράφουν και acion και και και. Πιστεύω πως θα ήταν πιο καλές οι πληροφορίες που θα συλλεγόντουσαν και οι πληροφορίες για τους νέους υποψήφιους εγγλεζάδες πιο ουσιώδης.Το να γίνεται τόση φασαρία για test curve διαφορετικές μύτες και όλα τα συναφή μόνο κούραση και μπέρδεμα προκαλεί.

Harrison Rods

Another example. For France we make many rods with a slightly more parabolic action than for the UK market. Regrettably we all mean different things by parabolic too, but what I mean is rod that is somewhere between fast taper and through action, so a French rod might be slightly less tippy than a UK rod.. A parabolic rod that is suitable for three ounce casting, will measure at a higher test curve than a rod that is fast taper of equivalent casting power. Again, it is to do with how willing the tip is to follow the line around to ninety degrees.

The test curve concept is flawed!

In the past, I have discussed this problem with many people, but so far none have come up with a solution. What we need is a measure of how much line a rod gives during flexing as a result of a pull by a fish. Imagine a rod clamped in a fixed position so that we could measure deflection against force of pull. If we were to plot on a graph the amount of line given , or deflection of a rod, against pull or load, we would get a curve. This curve would vary from rod to rod according to the action. If we can find a simple way to describe this curve, then we would have a measure that indicated both power and action. The curve of deflection against load would have a faster rate of change, a steeper ramping up, than a through action rod which would be closer to a straight line.



Οταν βρω τα στοιχεια απο την μετρηση τις Daiwa θα τα βαλω. Μεχρι τοτε συμφωνω με τον wizard.
Εαν βρεθεις στην Θεσ/νικη ελα να κανουμε στην πραξη 2-3 τεστ .. Ιδια βαση αλλη μυτη.. Ενω θα εχουμε ττην ιδια δυναμη τα αποτελεσματα του test curve θα ειναι διαφορετικα.

Τελικά ρε παιδιά πιο τηλεσκοπικό προτέινετε, μιας και θέλω και 'γω 'ενα δεύτερο για backup;
Ψαρεύω συνήθως σε ήρεμες θάλασσες (λιμάνια και βράχια) και χρησιμοποιώ φελλό το πολύ μέχρι +4 γραμμάρια.
Θα μπορούσε να συνδυαστεί ένα καλάμι και για Εγγλέζικο και για spinning από ακτή με μικρά τεχνητά;
Θέλω κάτι κοντύτερο από αυτό που έχω (4.5m shimano catana) για αλλαγή.

Τελικά ρε παιδιά πιο τηλεσκοπικό προτέινετε, μιας και θέλω και 'γω 'ενα δεύτερο για backup;
Ψαρεύω συνήθως σε ήρεμες θάλασσες (λιμάνια και βράχια) και χρησιμοποιώ φελλό το πολύ μέχρι +4 γραμμάρια.
Θα μπορούσε να συνδυαστεί ένα καλάμι και για Εγγλέζικο και για spinning από ακτή με μικρά τεχνητά;
Θέλω κάτι κοντύτερο από αυτό που έχω (4.5m shimano catana) για αλλαγή.

Πως αξιολογείς το σιμανο κατανα ;

Νομιζω πως καπου εχει χαθει η μπαλλα.

Αλλο αυτο που οι Αγγλοι ονομαζουν match fishing κι αλλο αυτο που στην Ελλαδα ονομαζουμε "Εγγλεζικο" απο το "al inglese" των Ιταλων. Μερικα καλαμια του match fishing μπορουν να χρησιμοποιηθουν και για εγγλεζικο.

Το casting weight των εγγλεζικων καλαμιων ειναι ενδεικτικο του βαρους που μπορει να πεταξει κι ισως εμμεσως της λεπτοτητας των παρελκομενων που μπορει να χρησιμοποιηθουν.

Αντωνη, απο το εξωτερικο ειχα φερει το τηλεσκοπικο Catana 3,90 με cw 5-25. Εσυ σε ποιο αναφερεσαι στο τρισπαστο ή στο τηλεσκοπικο και με ποιο action;


Βασιλης.

Αντωνη, απο το εξωτερικο ειχα φερει το τηλεσκοπικο Catana 3,90 με cw 5-25.

γραψε λαθος =CW 5-20

Maoukas έχω το 4,50 το τρίσπαστο με max casting weight 20.
Pinco μέχρι στιγμής είμαι ευχαριστημένος από το καλάμι.
Απ'όσο μου είπε κάποιος φίλος που το είδε και ξέρει από τεχνικά στοιχεία καλαμιών πρόκειται για ένα fast action καλάμι αλλά σκληρό σχετικά με την παραβολικότητα.

Διαβάζοντας πάντως στο site της shimano διάφορα στοιχεία για τα match καλάμια της, κατάλαβα ότι τα μακρύτερα καλάμια τα χρησιμοποιούν για χοντρότερες πετονιές και πιο μεγάλα ψάρια (αρα και το καλάμι πρέπει να είναι και πιο δυνατό) και τα πιο κοντά για πιο ψιλά νούμερα. Αντίστοιχες περιγραφές έχω διαβάσει και αλλού στο net.

Αντιγράφω από τη σελίδα : fish.shimano-eu.com/catalog/fish/product...&bmUID=1157023541825

There are four models beginning with the 390/420, which is designed for light line work through to the more robust 420/450 SPC that's at home tackling large fish on heavy lines.

Maoukas, πες μας για το τηλεσκοπικό, αν είσαι ευχαριστημένος, τι παίζεται με τους οδηγούς, τυχόν άλλα προβλήματα;

Να προσθέσω πάντως ότι τα καλάμια αυτά αναφέρεται ότι κάνουν και για commercial fishing - carping που σημαίναι κυπρίνους τέρατα. Άρα δεν νομίζω ότι μπορούν να κολώσουν στα δικά μας ψάρια, τι λέτε;